Sunday 27 April 2014

Time for a road trip.

It's April 2014 and I've written a few travel blogs now and I thought why not upload some old ones I wrote on the go in years gone by. It's a good excuse to reread them and remember our holidays.
This one is the road trip we took in March 2008 down to Victoria to drive the famous 'Great Ocean Road'. It started off pretty basic, more a brief description than a blog but grew as time went on.
Heading says 2009, it was definitely 2008.


Day 1. Sunday March 9th 2008. Home to Narooma. Weather – hot.
Left home 10am, as planned. Arrived Narooma, 5.15pm, later than anticipated.
Lunch at Berry. Good old fashioned hamburger for $5 at the little takeaway at the Shell servo. Pays to eat where the locals eat………not at the trendy ‘tourist’ places………
Ulladulla doesn’t look much different.
Quick stop at Bateman’s Bay, walk along waterfront.
Whale Motor Inn, Narooma. Booked 1st floor room, but ended up in ground floor room. Very nice room, all mod décor, being rendered outside.
Went to O’Brien’s Million Dollar View Hotel for dinner. Maybe half million dollar view now – the trees have grown up and blocked the view. Easy walk from the Whale. Very busy for a Sunday night. Not very hungry. Light dinner and drinks, $40. Prawn cocktail ok, garlic prawns, yummy, cali – crappy, frozen, reconstituted. Massive steaks. Put $5 in the pokies, won $65! We've covered the cost of dinner and then some! Back to Motel happy…..
Bumper stickers spotted… “earth first… we’ll log the other plants later”  “fertilise the bush, doze in a greenie”.



Day 2. Monday March 10th 2008. (Dad's birthday) Narooma to Lakes Entrance. Weather – hot.
Left Narooma about 9.30 after egg and bacon roll at O’Brien’s Half Million Dollar View. $5 each. Good start to the day. Arrived Lakes Entrance at 3.15, shorter drive today, or was it just quicker over the distance? I felt pretty shitty today, probably too big a day yesterday, so Trevor drove.  Forgot it was Victorian Public holiday. Lunch, ham and tom sandwich at Nowa Nowa, little shop in front of “Mingling Waters” caravan park. So un-touristy. General store closed ??? don't know why???
Whiter’s Holiday Village, bed not so good, sides very soft, thought I was going to fall out. TV reception shitty, shower horrible, spray facing wrong way. The fish co-op is not on Bullock island anymore, don't know where it is now. Trevor started a ‘wicked camper’ photo collection.
Rang Dad for his birthday. He's had a good day. Dinner at the local Bowling Club. Grilled Nannygai, never had that before.

Day 3. Tuesday March 11th 2008. Lakes Entrance to Mornington. Weather – overcast till lunch time, then sunny, not too hot.
Picnic lunch stop at Yarragon on the M1. (Princes Freeway) Signage from Frankston to Nepean Highway non-existent. Port Phillip Bay is huge!!
Mornington Motel, great spot. Big room. Checked out the local marina, very pretty, colourful bathing boxes on the beach, Sydney to Hobart yacht at the dock, “Skandia”, one of the big ones. Locals fishing off the pier, one guy caught big ?salmon probably 1.5kg, snapped it off trying to reel it in too quick. Saw massive stingray cruise by from under the pier. Dinner at the Royal Hotel. Very nice meal, lamb shanks and seafood thermidor.
Bumper sticker…. “Fillet and release” with pic of fish skeleton.

Day 4. Wednesday March 12th 2008. Mornington to Queenscliff. Weather – cloudy, cooler, sunny later in day.
Checked out bit after 9am, queued up for cheap fuel, $1.34, might be the last cheap fuel for a while. Wandered Mornington main st markets for about an hour. Interesting stuff. Continued on to Dromana, to check out Heronswood. Then on to Arthur’s Seat, signage a problem again. Good signs up till the crucial turn, then something so small you can barely see it cause you’re watching the traffic! Hazy view from Arthur’s Seat lookout. Spent an hour at the Enchanted Garden & Maze. $15 entry, could have spent longer. Picnic lunch at Arthur’s Seat. Drove thru to Red Hill to visit Brewery – closed till Thurs!! Grrr. No mention of that in the tourist information. On to Cape Schanck Lighthouse. $4.30 just to park the car, then no entry to lighthouse grounds without paying for tour….. Crap. Headed for Rosebud to the “Tasting Station”. Sounded like tasting of wine, beer, cheese, choc, olives – nothing like it!! Some bread for tasting olive oils, no dukkah, scabby broken crackers for tasting of sauces and jams. Wine, cheese and beer for sale. Found the Op Shop where all rejected clothes go to die, or live in purgatory forever……….
Arrived at Sorrento in time to see the 3pm ferry depart, we had planned for the 4pm one anyway. Bummed around the waterfront, quite pretty. Bought some chips at Fish Fetish in town, best chips for a long time. Big and fat, crispy but not overdone. Didn’t make it to Portsea. Trip on the ferry good, but would have been better with a bit of commentary, surely not too much to ask for the price you pay. $50 for the car, then $7 per adult. A local lady on board pointed out the “Pope’s Eye” as we went by, closer to Queenscliff side. She also said to look for seals, which were there, but I wouldn’t have known to look.
Accomodation at Beacon Resort Big 4 in motel unit. $106 after discount. Did some washing, it’s strung up around the room like a Chinese laundry with the air con on warm to try and get it dry. Amenities good, great spot for families.
Dinner at Queenscliff Bowling, Tennis and Croquet Club. Yummy chic schnitzel for me, veal schnitzel for Trevor, $10 each, bargain. Tried to check out the lighthouses at night, but couldn’t find very good vantage point. Lots of grand old buildings in Queenscliff.

Day 5. Thursday March 13th 2008. Queenscliff to Apollo Bay. Weather, very foggy early, cool, burnt off to a sunny 30 degrees.
Packed up and headed back into Queenscliff to visit the op shop, didn’t open till 10am so went and checked out Black Lighthouse and White Lighthouse, fog so thick, couldn’t see across the Rip. Could hear fog horns of ships and also from Point Lonsdale. Fog lifted and we could see Point Nepean. Back to op shop, bought long sleeve linen shirt, $3.
Drove to Point Lonsdale, “Lonny”, to the lighthouse, up close and personal, saw ships coming in, pilot boat going out, still foggy. Headed thru Ocean Grove, Barwon Heads, “Seachange” country. Got pics of Barwon Heads bridge and pier. ‘Diver Dan’s’ boatshed. Torquay for lunch, found ‘Growlers’, looked very expensive. Had a burrito at ‘Las Olas’. Car full of young dickheads, tooting horn and yahoo-ing, surfer types. Missed getting pic of Jan Juc sign for Hayden. Found Bells Beach, setting up for Ripcurl Pro this Easter weekend. Aireys Inlet and Split Point lighthouse next stop, Table Rock and Eagle Rock. So much to see along the road to Lorne, including the Great Ocean Road memorial arch.

 "A little known fact about the Great Ocean Road is that it was constructed as a war memorial for soldiers who lost their lives in the First World War. A number of monuments line the Great Ocean Road, which is recognised as the world’s largest war memorial and it was added to the Australian National Heritage List in 2011." (thanks to http://www.drivethegreatoceanroad.com.au/great-ocean-road-memorial-arch/ for that info). Erskine Falls, not much water, but would be spectacular after rain. Teddy’s Lookout good view. Lorne looked like a nice town, don’t know how pricey food was. Reminded me of driving into Terrigal. Stopped at a few lookouts along the road to Apollo Bay, Mount Defiance, Cape Patton.
Coastal Motel, Apollo Bay, for 2 nights. Big spa bath.
Drove around to breakwater and walked out to end. Saw penguin on way back in, but he was too quick for us to get a photo. 
Bought cooked chook (blandest ever!) from the supermarket, and salad for dinner, will attempt bacon and eggs for breakfast, only got the microwave to cook in. Might use the on-site BBQ. Restaurants pricey. Saw a sign that said ‘Beech Forest Rd closed’, hope not the bit we plan to use tomorrow. Thought we had heaps of time, but could have spent even a few more nights along the way….. Lorne definitely.

Day 6. Friday 14th March 2008. Apollo Bay. Weather – hot. Melbourne forecast 40 degrees. mid 30’s here.
Checked with local tourist info - Beech Forest Rd closed due to sealing of Turton’s Track, so no doing the loop as planned. Headed for Otway Fly via Lavers Hill, decided to go to the Triplet Falls first, one hour round trip, fairly serious going in places, so if that’s one of the easiest to get to, forget the rest! Again, as with Erskine Falls, lack of water due to low rainfall. Would be incredible after some good rain. Picnic lunch off to the side of the car park. Thankfully, being rainforest it was cool. Very strong winds up in the canopy. Otway Fly next, with a quick stop at Castle Cove Lookout, one of the few that’s not far from the carpark!! Bought the combined Fly/Lighthouse ticket, saved $4 each I think. Got to the top of the spiral tower and again, very windy and could smell smoke, bit disturbing. Got the welcome wagon back up to the top. While we were in the shop checking out the books of the Great Ocean Road, the people running the place were getting concerned about a fire about 7k away at Carlisle. (made the news). Decision made to close and evacuate. We were leaving anyway, we bought our book, so don’t know what happened. Seeing we had decided not to do any more waterfalls, we decided to go to the Cape Otway Lighthouse, where we saw the same book cheaper. Grrr again! Very interesting, with Telegraph station, Radar Bunker, the lighthouse, and again, cool ocean breeze, which was much stronger at the top of the tower. Great view. Feet very sore by now!!
Did some koala spotting on the way back out to the main road. No wonder overseas tourists think they might see kangaroos hopping down the street, when the koalas are just hanging around in the trees.
Back to Apollo Bay and realized we had missed the Marriner’s Lookout which we were to do on the way out to Skene’s Creek, but we couldn’t go that way. Track up to the top bit steep in one section and I left my water in the car!! Great view from the top, all of Apollo Bay.
Dinner at the Apollo Bay Top Pub.  Trevor chic schnitzel - nice; me, beer battered monk fish – yuk, shitty little bits of fish in a way too fresh batter. No wonder they give you 3 pieces.

Day 7. Saturday 15th March 2008. Apollo Bay to Port Campbell. Weather, warm but comfortable.
Apollo Bay markets on waterfront in the morning before we left. Bought date and walnut bar for ‘ron’. Last minute decision to stop at Mait’s Rest. Glad we did, it was a lovely walk, prob about ½ hour, not too strenuous, massive big old myrtle beech trees, lots of ferns and tree ferns, might be mozzie country, but not too bad today.
Lavers Hill – Blackwood Gully Tearooms looked nice, general store/ licensed café/PO, both at intersection, McDuffs Bakery closed and building up for sale, roadhouse on way out of town. Next stop, The Gable Lookout at Moonlight Head. Dirt road, really not worth bothering with unless you want to say you’ve been to the highest coastal cliff lookout in Australia (apparently).
Princetown for picnic lunch. This little place has a general store/café and a pub/takeaway and real estate agent. Up high on a hill overlooking a creek and floodplain and possibly to the Old Great Ocean Road.
Onwards, next stop, the Gibson Steps, our first view of an ‘Apostle’. Wow. But steps closed for safety reasons the day before!! Typical!! Tempted to jump the fence and go down anyway, but decided not. Couple of hundred metres along the road from here to the iconic view of the Apostles. Did not disappoint. Very windy, coolish, and lots of sea mist down low. 10kms from here to Port Campbell and it took just over 2 hours!! Such an amazing piece of coastline!
Loch Ard Gorge turnoff next on the road – there is a lot to see here, the turn off forks in 2, the left goes to Loch Ard Gorge and Muttonbird Island, the right to the Loch Ard Cemetery, Thunder Cave, The Blowhole, and Broken Head and a view down to the beach at the Sherbrook Estuary. Took heaps and heaps of photos. Didn’t go down on to the beach because we would have only had to walk back up!! Feet and legs killing by now!
Bailed and headed for Port Campbell and our cabin, number 10, at Port Campbell Caravan and Camping. Went into town to check out dinner options, found a very classy looking seafood restaurant, ’20 Ate’. Booked a table for our big seafood feast. Had a drink in the pub directly across from the bay, the 12 Rocks. Fair few rowdy young people around, probably with a bit too much grog in them, being very noisy on the verandah. A bus pulled up and some older parent-looking people started to herd them onto the bus. A few of the younger ones came inside for a quick ‘roadie’, and just as the parents tried to round them up and get them out onto the bus, the local copper came in and read them the riot act, one woman got in his face and said she didn’t mean to be rude or anything, but she didn’t think their behaviour had been that bad, then he said he’d had 16 phone calls of complaint. Gave them an official warning. Victorian Police Zero Tolerance policy in action. Good to see. Thought we had landed in a town of ferals. Port Campbell bay pumping.... wouldn’t want to  be out there in a boat. Grabbed a few supplies at the supermarket, and headed back to base for a clean up before dinner. Mussels cooked in a lime, chilli and coconut milk broth, and dozen oysters, natural, Kilpatrick, chilli, and hoi sin + peanut for entrée. Thought the hoi sin + peanut sounded interesting but I didn’t like it that much. Main was ½ lobbie cooked with herb and garlic butter, which was sooo fresh, all the seafood was, the other cooking style was the hoi sin and peanut. Trevor scored a free glass of pinot noir because 2 ladies ordered a glass each and when it came they were shocked to see it was red, and said they didn’t/couldn’t drink red wine!! A bloke at another table scored the other one. Finished up with a choc fondant desert, which was very tasty and decadent, served with ice cream, blueberries and a strawberry swirl. Yum. Although I was nearly asleep at the table!! Mussels, $16; oysters, $22; 2 x ½ lobby, $65; glass of white each, $6.50; dessert, $8.50. About $125 all up. The chef certainly knew his stuff, although he didn’t look the part…. Dreadlocks and all. Don’t think we’ve ever had such fresh seafood.
Plans for an early start tomorrow for sunrise at The 12 Apostles.

Day 8. Sunday 16th March 2008. Port Campbell. Weather, 6am, warm offshore breeze.
Up at 6 to be at 12 Apostles for sunrise, prob didn’t need to be quite so early but it was very peaceful at that hour……….. took heaps more photos, will be interesting to see how they turn out. No tripod and low light is an interesting combination. 

Bacon and eggs for brekkie, then some time out to do washing and catch up on this (didn’t do yesterday’s). 10.20 now, plan to go to Timboon later for a little gourmet drive. Found the “Mousetrap” tasting and sales for Timboon cheese. Trevor discovered he actually likes brie. We bought some. Timboon itself was quite a surprise, probably comparable in size to Port Campbell, (better supermarket). Must be some sort of industry or major agricultural employer. Gas plant at Newfield on way home. Bit far from Timboon though, although Timboon only 15-20 min from Port Campbell. Wish I’d found out a bit more about it before we came away. Definitely more than a speck of fly dirt on the map. Bit of a rest day today, which we discovered we needed, picnic lunch back in Port Campbell. Walked the headland track for some good views of the town. No boat ramp here, it gets too rough. They just lift the boats out of the water and back in the boat trailer!

Coming back down, it was so hot and the people at the beach made it look so good, we decided on a swim. It was friggin’ freezin’!! You could almost see little bits of ice floating past. We got our feet wet anyway, had to be able to say we’d been in the Southern Ocean. Nothing between here and Antarctica…….. Realised a lot of kids were wearing wetsuits. Booked for dinner at the 12 Rocks.  Sunrise photos look like there might be a few good ones.

Day 9. Monday 17th March 2008. Port Campbell to Warrnambool. Weather – bloody hot. Top temp in Warrnambool 41 degrees!!
Asked at Tourist Info in Port Campbell about Timboon, apparently it is the local ‘big’ town, all the Port Campbell kids go to school there, most medical facilities, including hospital, Library etc. Left town about 10am, already feeling the heat.
First stop on road to Warrnambool, lookout overlooking Port Campbell. 
 
Port Campbell

Then on to ‘The Arch’, boardwalk and sloping path down to viewing area, makes you wonder how long it will be there. ‘London Bridge’, ‘The Grotto’, pathway and stairs down to the viewing area, 8m above sea level, would be interesting to see in big seas, and a quick drive thru Peterborough. Nice bay there with more outcrops. So very hot walking around these places, it was a real effort. It wasn't supposed to be this hot here in March! Bay of Islands next on the list, again, outstanding formations, amazingly not as well publicised as the Apostles. Also stopped in at Boat Bay where there is a boat launch area in a sheltered bay, but the access was very steep and only recommended for 4WD, probably towing boat etc, but not game to take the chance. Someone else drove down and said there were lots of boats down there. If it hadn’t been so hot, may have gone down the steps and had a look. So bloody hot, decided to make tracks for the Big 4 Ocean Beach Holiday Village, cabin 39, super deluxe!!. Luckily at 1pm they let us check in and the air con was already pumping when we opened the door. Paradise. Lovely cabin, spacious living area, spa bath, queen bed. No shady verandah though… Took a nanna nap because we were going to Flagstaff Hill ‘Shipwrecked’ sound and laser show, and also because we were exhausted from the heat. About 4.30pm went on a drive around town, out to the breakwater, Thunder Point lookout, lots of people cooling off in Stingray Bay, sheltered by Merri and Middle Island. Out to Wollaston Bridge, a cable bridge built using cables from the Melbourne to Hawthorn tram service, where the local boys were jumping off into the Merri River. Back thru the main st, Liebig St, to Cannon Hill Lookout and the Warrnambool RSL for dinner in the bistro. Talked to a couple who are caravanning, they come from Newcastle and their son lives at Kincumber! Small world! They’d been for a dip at Stingray, said the water was shallow and not freezing. Back to cabin for freshen up and change into jeans, in case the night show is cooler, but needn’t have worried, it was probably still in the low 20’s. The show was enjoyable enough, very well done, but I don’t know if I’d give it a big wrap. Warrnambool is another place where it would be easy to spend a few more days, there is a lot to do and see. The cemetery would be very interesting, but we won’t have time. Did not see one single ‘wicked’ camper today – not even before we left Port Campbell.

Day 10. Tuesday 18th March 2008. Warrnambool. Weather – much cooler, cloudy, very light showers at times. Top of 24. Totally different day.
Back to Thunder Point to try for better pics with morning sun. Decided to go to Flagstaff Hill after all. Good decision – got there at 11am, in time for a quick visit in the upper lighthouse, before a volunteer tour guide (friend of Flagstaff Hill), started a tour of the heritage buildings at the top of the hill at 11.30. Started at the Loch Ard Peacock, info about navigation equipment and skills of sea captains and how many vessels came to grief along this stretch of coastline. Peacock is beautiful, quite large. Hard to believe it could have survived all it went thru. 

Volunteer Tom waited at the top of the upper lighthouse for visitors and had some interesting info regarding the lighthouses, upper and lower, which were originally located on Middle Island, but because it was often difficult to get provisions to them, the decision was made to relocate them both, along with the lighthouse keeper and assistant lighthouse keeper's houses, and the privy. Lower lighthouse is the only square lighthouse in Victoria. Upper lighthouse was a challenge to move because the lighthouse, obviously, being round and tapered, and the shape of each block being different and needing to be put back in the exact same position, without the use of mortar, each block locked in to the adjacent block. Major Smith took over the tour next and discussed the Flagstaff Hill battery and magazine. The cannons are fired regularly, next time will be Easter. We left things there and headed off for our next stop, Port Fairy. Threatening clouds along the way dropped a bit of showery rain. Port Fairy very pretty, would have been better on sunny day. Watched fishermen unload their catch, gummy sharks, yuk, and big red snapper, yum. Saw another boat come in with crayfish on board. Walked along the breakwater to see the Port Fairy Lighthouse. So many of these seaside towns have no problem stabilizing the entrance to their waterways, even if it means regular dredging, as well as building breakwaters. Don’t understand why our local councils have such a problem with it.
Port Fairy
Headed back to Warrnambool via Koroit, did have a tour in mind, but decided to go to Mailor’s Flat and check out the antique shop and demolition yard. Heaps of interesting stuff, no bargains. Returned to cabin for arvo tea, which we enjoyed on the verandah of the cabin across the road, because we don’t have one…. People arrived about an hour after we had our cuppa!!
Went back to Thunder Point for sunset hoping to get some good shots. Cloudy, but hopefully got something good. Damned cold though, even with jumper on. So radically different from yesterday. Wind really felt like it was blowing off the Antarctic.
Dinner at ‘Bojangles’ in Warrnambool, pizza and seafood restaurant. $7 corkage!!! Are you kidding me? Place next door charged $5!! Dinner nice, marinara pizza and rocket/parmesan salad.

Day 11. Wednesday 19th March 2008. Warrnambool to Euroa. Weather – sunny, not too hot.
Got away by 10am, by the time we stopped off for a few supplies at Woolies and some fuel. Lot of talk about petrol going over $1.50 for Easter, but still around $1.45. Decided to skip ‘Cheeseworld’ at Allansford as we still had cheese from Timboon. Another good excuse to go back! Back in ‘travel’ mode, we didn’t stop in Camperdown though it looked an interesting town. Wanted to see the Floating Islands at Stony Rises, but according to the Visitor Info people at Colac, they don’t float anymore…… Stopped at a park on the river at Winchelsea for our picnic lunch, not sure if it was the Barwon River.
Found our way through the outskirts of Geelong easily, well signed. Another rest stop at Broadford, where we discovered this town is the home of Allen’s lollies. Discovered the wine region north of Seymour, which will also require further investigation at some stage. Some of the wineries: Avenel, Tabilk, Nagambie, Michellstown, Longwood. Arrived in Euroa around 4pm and found our B&B easily. What a great place. Courtside Cottage B&B, Bernie and Veronica. Probably was once a granny flat, but has had a very plush makeover and we also had use of the pool in the yard. Our hosts recommended the local hotel, Seven Creeks, for dinner and mentioned the very good local wine list. Dinner was great, but unfortunately, they were out of the Plunkett wine we wanted to try, so we had Preece from Michelton. Looks like a trip to Uncle Dan’s (Dan Murphy's). Full breakfast next morning, all for $120. Bargain.

Day 12. Thursday 20th March 2008. Euroa to Yass. Weather, muggy, overcast.
Breakfast delivered at 7.30, yummy, plenty of it. Away by about 9.15, arrived in Beechworth in about an hour, wandered around for an hour, bought a Beechworth Bakery shopping bag and a vanilla slice at the Beechworth Bakery, which I ate when we arrived at Yass. Lunch at the HMAS Otway in Holbrook. Very busy park today, different to when we were there last. Travel time blown out by roadworks over 125 klm from near Table Top to Tarcutta. Lots of 80k zones. Be terrific when it’s finished, scheduled for Dec 09. Got a phone call from Annette, the owner of the Globe Inn, to say she had to go out and where she’d leave us a key to get in. Was weird wandering around in this once grand old converted pub, checking out our choice of rooms. Half expected to walk in on Miss Havisham……. Found a kettle and tea and coffee upstairs so made a cuppa and sat on the verandah over the footpath. Heard a knock at the door downstairs and leaned over the rail and called out to whoever it was. It was another couple who were booked in, so I went down and let them in and they came up and made a cuppa as well. Not long after, Annette arrived home and we got our room sorted out. We had the choice of the Garden Room, or room 3 upstairs. We took the Garden Room. There were 5 guest rooms upstairs, two adjoining, not all with ensuite, plus the Garden room, which had a spa bath in the room, which was a bit strange. At least the loo was in a little room of it’s own. Dinner at Margaret’s Kitchen at the pub at the far end of town. Talked to a bloke who grew up in the area and had come back from Sydney to revisit the old stomping grounds. His family’s property and those surrounding are now owned by Rupert Murdoch. Shame we missed the shops, spotted something really nice that I would have bought if I could.

Day 13. March 21st 2008- Good Friday. Yass to HOME!!! Weather – cool, drizzling rain by Goulburn, bit heavier at times.
Another magnificent breakfast, juice, home made fruit salad, yoghurt, cereal, toast and cooked bacon & eggs. On the road a bit after 9. Must remember that the service center at Marulan has Happy Jacks, preferable to Maccas. Only needed the loo though. Once again Goulburn didn’t disappoint, it was as cold as ever………. Used the M7 on this trip, what a top road, cut off so much time. No picnic today, too miserable and besides, we had no food, so Maccas at Thornleigh. The F3 was a car park, so we got off at Berowra and back on again at the Hawkesbury. Home by 3 or 3.30. 

We covered a lot of ground in this (almost) 2 weeks. I wouldn't recommend any less time and as always with a trip anywhere, more time could be spent in many of these places.